Frequently Asked Questions
Click a frequently asked question below to see the answer.
A cloud of bubbles is forming in the chlorinator cell?
If the chlorinator and pump are running, it is normal for a cloud of small bubbles to be produced in the cell, indicating chlorine is being produced.
My pool has a strong chlorine odor?
Surprisingly, the issue here is not too much chlorine, as many imagine. Chloramines are formed by the bonding of chlorine with amines from sweat, urine and other sources. These chloramines make the "chlorine" odor and can also cause eye and skin irritations. Free chlorine does not smell (up to 10 ppm concentration). The remedy is to super chlorinate/shock dose. Refer to owner's manual for step by step instructions on how to shock dose.
My pool is green and there is no chlorine reading?
A chlorine residual of 1 to 3 ppm is considered desirable. The solution is to super chlorinate or "shock dose" especially in hot weather. This procedure raises the chlorine residual to a very high level for a short period of time and reduces chlorine demand. You will also need to check your stabilizer (cyanuric acid) levels to ensure it is between 30-50ppm. Refer to your owner's manual for step by step instructions on how to shock dose.
My water looks clean but there is no chlorine residual reading?
To test for chlorine residual, switch on the filtration system and turn the chlorinator to maximum output. After a few hours take a water sample from the pool. Test this water with your test kit or take it to a local pool professional. A minimum chlorine residual of 1 to 3 ppm is desirable.
1. Adjust PH within the range 7.2 to 7.6. Make sure your cell is clean (clean if required).
2. Check your stabilizer (cyanuric acid) levels. Increase the setting of the chlorine output control. Adjust total alkalinity to recommended range. Test for phosphates. Adjust total hardness to recommended range.
3. Increase chlorinator to maximum output. Check salinity level and ensure it's within the recommended range. Increase the running time of the filter and chlorinator. Make sure the filter is clean and functioning properly.
Should an anti-algae treatment be used in addition to the chlorinator?
If algae is present and a chlorinator is being used, algaecide can be used to remove troublesome algae. Please keep in mind that if you are also using a Nature 2 product, it is important not to use copper based algaecides.
The walls of my pool/spa are slimy?
This is caused by combined algae and bacteria growth. Scrub down affected walls and super chlorinate/shock dose using a large shock dose of liquid chlorine. Refer to owner's manual for step by step instructions.
There is a scale or calcium build up on the electrode of my chlorinator?
There are a couple of causes for this. First, your pH may be incorrect; test the water and adjust the pH range from 7.2 to 7.6. Second, the Total Alkalinity may be high; test the water and adjust total alkalinity from 80 to 120 ppm. Third, the Calcium Hardness may be too high; test the water and adjust the Calcium Hardness from 150 to 400 ppm.
1. Clean the scale from the cell (refer to the maintenance section in your owner's manual for step by step instructions) and increase the running time of the filter and chlorinator.
2. Make sure the filter is clean and functioning properly.
What are the standard chemical values?
Please refer to your Installation Manual for optimum pool water conditions, as these conditions may change depending on which product you're using.
What is Shocking?
Shocking is the same as Super Chlorinating. Shocking burns out the organic material that combines with chlorine. This frees the chlorine for sanitizing. Shocking is accomplished by raising the chlorine level quickly and dramatically. When the chlorine level is raised from 5 to 15 PPM the pool water is said to have been Super Chlorinated (shocked).
NOTE: On initial startup of a pool, it is best to Super Chlorinate from an outside source, i.e., use a shock treatment
available at your local pool supplier.